Beauty 101

Olive oil: better than botox? Is this extract from the fruits (olives) of Olea europaea trees the antiaging answer we have been looking for? Well let’s take a look at its composition, potential benefits and the difficulties of formulating with a natural plant derived oil.

HYALURONIC ACID (HA or hyaluronan), the ultimate water binder and one of the most hydrophilic (water-loving) molecules in nature. HA holds 1000 times its weight in water, plumping the skin by fixing water. This super hydrator also regulates keratinocytes proliferation and differentiation, barrier formation, oxidative stress, inflammation, cell survival and wound healing.

Silicones and skincare. It started in the 1950s when dimethicone was used as an emollient, barrier former and “feel good”  molecule. The 70s introduced a new type of fluid, volatile and low viscosity silicones, cyclomethicones, which act as solvent helping to deliver active ingredients to the skin. It was during the 80s when the love affair between skincare and silicones solidified with an increased demand for these molecules and the development of new versions such as non-ionic silicones (emulsifiers, foam stabilizers and wetting agents) and wax compatible silicones (ideal for lipsticks). Today, silicone elastomers and resins allow formulators to create elegant and light-weight products that hydrate the skin by forming a breathable barrier. In addition, silicones mattify the skin and fill in fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing texture, while providing a blurring effect.

BAKUCHIOL also known as (1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol) is a meroterpene phenol derived from Psoralea corylifolia. Bakuchiol is not a retinoid (vitamin A derivative), but due to some similar gene expression patterns (similar not identical), bakuchiol has been wrongly named the “plant derived (or vegan) retinol”. There is no evidence that bakuchiol interacts with retinoic acid receptors, which are responsible for the anti-aging benefits of vitamin A.

Arbutins are depigmenting molecules. Chemically, these molecules are glycosylated forms of hydroquinone (HQ). What does this mean? It means that arbutin is a HQ molecule with a sugar attached to a functional group. This group can be in alpha or beta position (chemistry 101) and therefore we have alpha and beta-arbutin. The naturally occurring arbutin or beta-arbutin is found on bearberry, mulberry, blueberry, cranberry, wheat, and some types of pears. Alpha-arbutin (AA) is a biosynthetic water soluble ingredient more stable and 10-20 times more powerful than beta-arbutin. Due to these characteristics (more stable and efficacious) AA has widely replaced beta-arbutin as the selected skin-lightening molecule in topical formulations. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) suggested that AA in skincare products should be at a maximum concentration of 2% and 0.5% for face and body lotions, respectively. In the case of beta-arbutin the maximum suggested concentration for facial creams is about 7%.

If you ask me, there are two non-negotiable skincare steps that everyone should perform regardless of age, ethnicity, gender or geographical location: hydrate and wear sunscreen. While, skin moisturization existed for over 10,000 years, daily sunscreen use was incorporated into our routine “only” in the past century. Today, hydrators and moisturizers are popular products as dryness is on the rise courtesy of urban life and increased longevity. 

Skin fasting means to deprive our skin of skincare-actives for certain periods of time allowing our skin to “rejuvenate and repair by itself, detoxify the skin and allow a complete reset” 🥴There are different degrees of skin fasting, from removing all skincare products (including cleansers, moisturizers and of course sunscreens … yes, sunscreen! 😮) to selectively remove potent active ingredients such as retinoids or acids. 

(1) The skin surface is not flat. It contains about 5 million apertures such as hair follicles and sweat and sebaceous glands (also known as skin appendages). Why is this important? Well, these structures cr...

Do I slug? Yes! I had done it and I loved it, but before you jump into this, there are a couple of things to consider about your own skin and environment. Let’s start with definitions: What is slugging or slug life? It is a fancy new name for something that our grandmothers and women before them had done for many years: slathering their faces at night with a heavy occlusive moisturizer. 

Around 70% of the world population is deficient in vitamin D and guess what: low levels of vitamin D are linked to hair loss.  Vitamin D 101: Vitamin D is fat soluble and it is produced by keratinocytes (KC) in a UVB-light dependent manner. It also comes from our diet. Vitamin D acts as anti-inflammatory and maintains serum calcium and phosphorus levels. Vitamin D modulates the immune response. There are approximately 2,000 genes under the control of vitamin D (5% of our genome).

Personally I do not use skincare products that contain fragrances neither I incorporate fragrances in the products I design. I am totally fine with products smelling like the raw ingredients (even when these do not smell like roses). These are my 7 reasons why I do not like fragrances in skincare:

In 1928 Schade and Marchionini first coined the term Säuremantel or acid mantle, which described the inherent acidic nature of the stratum corneum (pH 4.3-5.3). SC pH is critical to preserve barrier function determining cohesion/ integrity and preserving the microbiota. It is logical to assume that skincare formulations should be acidic. Skin friendly pH formulations are especially important for subjects affected by skin diseases or for older individuals, as the skin surface pH becomes alkaline under these circumstances.